Side Dish: Roast Duck at Gum Kuo in Dublin
Skin and all.
I’m easily seduced by any crispy-skinned duck, especially when it eats as succulently as the bone-in bird at Gum Kuo.
Gum Kuo, a bright, welcoming restaurant in Dublin’s alluring Fallon Gateway Shopping Center, serves up many authentic Chinese dishes (the tofu and pumpkin hot pot is tremendous). But it is also accessible to those who like to play it safe (try the mild and silky chow fun with shrimp).
The roast duck is more middle of the road. It is simply delicious, but it does require some picking and gnawing to fully enjoy. And to miss the crackling skin is to miss the point. I love eating duck with my fingers, so it was a blessing of sorts our order didn’t arrive piping hot. But don’t hesitate to ask for a warm up—Gum Kuo’s service is cheerful and accommodating.
3720 Fallon Rd., Dublin, (925) 999-8627. gumkuorestaurant.com. Lunch and dinner daily.